Did Simone Rocha steal before London Fashion Week ended? Her Spring/Summer 2023 collection is unveiled today at the Central Criminal Court of England and Wales (colloquially known as The Old Bailey) It seems that Rocha did just that. 2010 Lulu Her Kennedy Fashion With a formative background that began in her East her classes and her education in Central Her St. Her Martins, Rocha delivers consistently season after season It has made a name for itself. Each one is outfitted with her usual romantic design language.

For SS23 Rocha took us to court. Not only has the designer unveiled her first fully formed menswear collection, but she has successfully combined this newness with both lines of house her code and the level of attention to detail she’s come to expect.

To the deafening melodies of opera music, tulle formations wrap around the body in soft waves, creating a dramatic atmosphere with hanging ribbons and baroque floral motifs on the floor. A statement-making look you can’t miss. Pearl beads adorned the ruffled shoulders of sweater vests, larger-than-life backpack straps, and, of course, Rocha’s signature bag, reminiscent of pearls themselves.

The approval came from the very second menswear to hit the runway, as Rocha demonstrated a symbiotic relationship between its well-defined womenswear catalog and new menswear range. The tulle came in a cream color but had distinctly hard edges, avoiding frills due to structural fallouts coming down from the very oversized bomber jacket. ‘s approach — while fully aware that the typical menswear buyer may not want to opt for ruffles, has access to the look via the aforementioned bombers — and as designers It utilizes Rocha’s ability to be conscious.

Similarly, another bomber jacket (this time in a traditional shade of glossy khaki) was paired with cargo pants, echoing the straps embedded in the jacket, also placed on the ruched legs. Harmony was born in the next look, this time in womenswear, where the iconic bomber jacket shape was transformed into a plump dress of a technical kind, and vice versa in the next look, menswear reappeared. A cream apron bib adorned with pearl detailing over a sit-down white t-shirt and floral trousers brings soft-meets-hard fashion back to life.

The white t-shirt is anything but simple, with three-dimensional carvings on the front. Rocha’s floral print adorns a satin-cream coat, and the lapel flaps carelessly, recalling Maison Margiela’s duvet coat. Men’s tailoring, on the other hand, maintained a rather traditional, clean black cut.

It wasn’t just Rocha’s promising endeavor. Her menswear collection was the most substantial to date and was enough to quickly throw a designer into this relatively unexplored world. A couture-inspired finale, complete with references to Lee Alexander McQueen and a white bridal ensemble, concluded the masterpiece show.

Speaking about the collection, Rocha said her harness is a reference to the concept of physically harnessing her emotions over the past two years. .

“I am really proud [deliver] I felt like I could tackle this beautiful masculinity with menswear. It justifies everything I’ve done in the last ten years, what the role is, and how it crosses between the two of him, and it’s in masculinity. I wanted to explore. “

Simone Rocha’s SS23 runway show can be seen in the gallery above, while content from London Fashion Week SS23 can be found on Hypebeast and on their new Instagram channel @HypebeastUK.

For more must-see shows, check out JW Anderson’s hugely successful collection.