It’s been a tough year for Svitlana Bevza. Back in February, the Ukrainian fashion designer had barely returned to her native Kyiv after presenting her fall 2022 collection at New York Fashion Week before Ukraine was invaded by Russia. A year-old designer and founder of the label of the same name. Bebuza moved his two children and part of his business to Portugal while continuing to fill orders for Selfridges, Bergdorf Goodman and Moda Operandi. Her garments have sleek edges softened by the command of graceful draping and are complemented by eye-catching jewelery that has graced her Instagram grids of many of her fashion editors.

For six months, the designer and her team worked hard on the Spring 2023 collection, which debuted at New York Fashion Week in September. In the following interview, Svitlana said: water surface On creating the collection entirely over video calls, the support she’s received from fashion industry giants like Celine and Anna Wintour, and why she still does shows in New York City every year.

How was Fashion Month this year?

Well they say okay! I think it was a successful show. This time it took too long. That process was completely different from what we used to do. Afterwards, I visited the New York and Paris showrooms where Condé Nast held events for Ukrainian designers. It was a big support for us. Here comes Anna Wintour. Can you imagine? my god!

You are currently based in Portugal. How has the last six months been like as a designer for a brand based in Kyiv?

In the first month and a half of the war we could do nothing. Production was blocked due to inability to access the warehouse. The road was blocked. Before the war, we had to ship items to buyers. His 90% of our sales are made abroad and we were unable to make deliveries because the planes stopped flying and ground transport could not reach Ukraine at first. However, we did not cancel the order, which resulted in great support from our buyers.they all said “We can wait.“

What happened after the first 6 weeks?

We risked reopening.Finally got access to the warehouse and started packing [orders] And somehow delivered them. We have renewed our website and posted a message on the main page stating, “Currently, we are open for a while.”But then I realized things were going on [forward] Somehow in Kyiv it did not close again. We prepared earrings, pendants and necklaces with spikelets, the main symbol of Ukraine, a very fertile land and the world’s largest exporter of wheat. started. The woman who remained in Ukraine and her husband, a Ukrainian who left her country, needed something symbolic, and that was one of the key things that saved the business.

After settling in Portugal, it would have been perfectly understandable to take a break from the season and find your direction.

that’s my job. It’s my favorite, but it’s also a liability. Her husband is now in the Ukrainian Army, so I am the one who supports her family. I have two children who have to go to school. My business must go on. They have jobs now, so my team had a lot of responsibility. Our factory is also in Ukraine, so they make money. We thought we would have to produce everything in Portugal, but after a few months the factory reopened in Ukraine. They called me and told them to place the order.

How did you manage the demand for fashion calendars while moving your business to another country?

With my manager, I was able to work online from any country, but it was dangerous for the technical team, my atelier and tailors, who usually work directly to develop the collection. I did it over the phone and sent the sketch. It was my first time seeing the collection when I flew to Ukraine in August to shoot the lookbook. My team members are my personal heroes.

Are there any Portuguese products in your recent collection?

I found a factory that makes perfect leather bags, Balenciaga T-shirts, Jacquemus and Coperni bags. There is one factory that mainly handles kaite, so the quality is very good. We had him make 4 dresses and 2 of his t-shirts there. That dress had some very generous support from Celine earlier in the summer. A Ukrainian woman in charge of merchandising for Celine provided the fabric. I went to their warehouse and they gave me the fabrics used for those four dresses.

You’re pretty close to your European shows, but you’re still presenting in New York. What does the fashion community here mean to you?

When I first thought about attending a global fashion week, I thought of New York. At the time, I wasn’t thinking of Paris, but now New York is hosting an 11-season showcase. . I have to ask myself deep down: why not Paris? But I love doing business with Americans because everything is on time and their answers are very straight forward. . Very special.

Where are your favorite spots in New York?

MoMA store. When you get there, oh my god, you spend all your money! Then I’ll go across the street to Balthazar for a coffee or lunch, my time in New York. When I go between Fashion Weeks, I love the Guggenheim Museum and the burgers at the restaurants there, but I don’t have free time to explore the city during Fashion Week.

You said in an interview that the rest of the fashion community is incredibly supportive. What are some examples of that?

It was the fabric that Celine gave me and the patience of the buyer. There is a factory that was reserved but found space for us and produced samples mid-season. Moda Operandi hosted a trunk show featuring Spikelet his jewelry. Lauren Santo Domingo messaged me on her Instagram to launch on the day of the September 13th fashion show. It was amazing.

But at the same time, even with the support, I understand that my duty is to make a good product. It’s business. they have to make a sale. When I do a show, I am responsible for paying for the model, venue, etc.

Using wheat as a motif, you create works that are reminiscent of bulletproof vests. What themes, symbols or ideas would you like to explore in your next collection?

I’m not talking about the next collection. I have an idea, but it’s not easily known until it’s finished. But it is connected to Ukraine. I think it’s every Ukrainian designer’s dream to tie his work to victory, but I don’t know. I have a lot of white in my spring/summer collection because white means hope to me. was centered on