It feels like Paris Fashion Week is finally in full swing. The Saint Laurent show, which takes place under the glittering lights of the Eiffel Tower each year, is a decadent Parisian experience. This season, the label hosted a more intimate presentation than past seasons, drawing inspiration directly from the archives with an incredibly chic twist.Saint Laurent What You Need to Know About the Spring 2023 Show are all here.

A show inspired by house codes

If there’s one element that defines the entire Saint Laurent Spring 2023 collection, it’s the silky tubular hoods that are elegantly attached to nearly every look. According to the fashion house, the image ranges from Claude’s 1969 chiffon dress in collaboration with Lalanne to the smooth fabric hood of his 1985 haute couture collection for the same label, as well as Yves. Until his last Saint Laurent show, he appeared in its archives many times. It is perhaps most recognized as being associated with the hooded “capuche” pieces of the mid-1980s. The chic addition is definitely an iconic look that has permeated pop culture over the years (think Grace Jones and Martha Graham) beyond the scope of Saint Laurent.

The new silhouette is big and bold

Yves Saint Laurent is remembered for many things, but especially for inventing the Le Smoking Tuxedo Suit for women in 1966. The skinny, lean cut set radicalized the fashion industry for years to come, and this season, courtesy of creative director Anthony Vaccarello, is a bold new interpretation of the suiting silhouette. Added. The brand ushered in soft suits shaped like pajamas with plush leathers, metallic cuffs and sunglasses. It looked a bit like Studio 54 redux, including the sheer column dress. But most of all, it felt like a new suit for a new era of Saint Laurent. Don’t leave home without big shoulders, big earrings, and a big hood that hides especially attractively.

’80s colors reigned supreme

If there was any other suspicion that Anthony Vaccarello was riffing on the brand’s ’80s archives, the off-kilter color combinations felt otherworldly compared to this season’s dedication to stark blacks and muted neutrals. Sure, there were basic shades, but the clothes actually came to life with an intriguing subdued brightness. Saffron column jersey Rich burgundy leather layered over his dress His jacket hopped across the floor as he moved. Eggplant purples, real olive greens, and incredibly decadent chocolate browns really flourished.

The setting was impressive and star-studded

Saint Laurent shows are usually held each season under the enchanting lights of the Eiffel Tower. Spring 2023 will return to showcase the tower’s twinkling lights, branded sculptures within area fountains, and a host of front-row stars including Hailey Bieber, Zoe Kravitz, Amber Valletta, Kate Moss, Shalom Harlow, and Juergen Teller. .

Iconic muses from Yves Saint Laurent’s past, including Betty Catroux and Jerry Hall, were also in attendance.