The Science and Art of Wine and Chocolate Pairing
In my last column, I focused on the similarities between the life cycle of wine and chocolate, from raw material to final product. We compared each step of growing, harvesting and producing wine with similar steps in chocolate making. The similarities run deep and wide.
In another column, I hinted that each product pairing is synergistic and brings joy to my taste buds and senses. Built on the combination of consuming wine and chocolate together, the third sense creates a higher level of sensory and spiritual pleasure.
Reactions from readers on the wine and chocolate pairings covered the whole spectrum. “Wine and chocolate?” “Wine and chocolate!” “Wine and chocolate!!??”
This led to the inspiration for this week’s column. Why and how to combine these comparable foods.
As with wine pairing, the goal is to enhance the character of a particular wine and a particular dish. Fine chocolate has a high cocoa butter fat content that coats the tongue and mutes the food that follows.
Certain wines have a relatively high acidity that can tear through the coating on the tongue, priming the palate to fully enjoy the next bite of chocolate. More fruity wines fail to achieve this. The conflict between the astringency of wine and the bitterness of chocolate spoils these combinations. Similarly, sweeter chocolates tend to be overpowered by sweet wines. High-tannin dark chocolate is always a bad match for high-tannin wine.
So which chocolate and which wine? A logical inference might be a wine with a sweet and sour character, and a dark, semi-sweet chocolate.
wine: In my opinion, port reigns supreme in pairing with chocolate. Older, heavier styles of port tend to be too brooding when paired with dark chocolate. Light styles such as tan and ruby are excellent. Their lively style maximizes the creaminess and spiciness of dark chocolate.
chocolate: There are so many fine chocolates on the market today. Look for medium to small producers who focus on the (bitter) sweet spot with 60-70 percent chocolate. Too little chocolate will make the cake too sweet. A high level of lingering bitterness that puckers the mouth.
Would you like to enter the port? My next favorite is Zinfandel. Many producers create bold gins that balance just a touch of sweetness and acidity. Many Sonoma County Bella Vineyards and California Ridge Zinfandel blends pair well with fine dark chocolate. We also enjoyed the dessert wine pairings such as Vin Santo.
When I’m in doubt about a pairing decision, confused about which wine to pair with chocolate and many other foods, my go-to wine is a sparkling wine made in the Méthode Champenois style. The acidity and foam cuts through the oiliness, creaminess, or heat of most foods and prepares the palate to enjoy every bite.
If you prefer the sensual experience of wine and chocolate pairing without the effort of choosing each example, try the Amarone wine from Italy’s Valpolicella region. Its terroir and winemaking process frequently produce robust wines with notes and flavors of chocolate in every sniff.
Be aware of the sensory dichotomy that exists, whether you enjoy pairing your favorite chocolate with a particular wine or your favorite wine with a particular chocolate. Aim for a combination that you can enjoy even more. As in life, diversity and compatibility create the best relationships.
Nick Antonaccio has lived in Pleasantville for 45 years. For over 25 years he has been wine tasting and giving lectures. Nick is a member and Program Director of the Wine Media Guild of Wine Journalists. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s mantra: Continuous experimentation leads to instinctive behavior.you can contact him nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com Or on Twitter @sharingwine.
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