Haitian-born Italian designer Stella Jean is back on the runways in Milan after a two-year hiatus. The show highlighted the talent of her 10 new designers of color whose design history is tied to Italy.

In 2020, Jean vowed not to return to Milan Fashion Week, which opened Wednesday, until she was no longer the only black designer. The We Are Made in Italy movement, which she founded with author Michel Ngomuno, assured her otherwise.

Maximilian Davis, a 27-year-old British fashion designer with Afro-Caribbean roots, makes her debut as creative director for Salvatore Ferragamo. Filipino-American designer Luigi Villasenor brings Bally to the runway for the first time in 20 years. Founded by British-Nigerian designer Inie Tokyo James, Tokyo James presents a collection exclusively for women.

Jean is headlining the runway show alongside Buchanan and five new We Are Made in Italy designers, including a Vietnamese apparel designer, an Italian-Indian accessory designer and an African-American bag designer. It will be his third WAMI group to present a collection in Milan.

“We’re making ourselves feel,” Jean told The Associated Press. “We invited all these young people. We created a space. It was profitable.”

Buchanan kicked off the show with jersey knitwear with a denim feel from his Sansonvino 6 line, followed by a capsule collection by the newest group of Fabulous Five WAMI designers, Italian tailoring and what she sourced from around the world. Jean’s creations continued, combining artisanal references.

Each of the new WAMI designers shares a connection to Italy, either through their families or by immigrating to study or work here.

Italian-Indian designer Eileen Claudia Akbaraly introduced the Made for a Woman brand, which makes raffia clothing and accessories ethically sourced from Madagascar. New York-based designer Akira Stewart founded her brand of FATRA bags that work with recycled plastic waste. Indian-born girlfriend Neha Poorswani designs her shoes under the name ‘Runway Reinvented’. Vietnamese designer Phang Dang Hoang’s apparel line mixes Asian and Western cultures, while Korean designer Kim Gaeun’s Villain brand blends elements of traditional Korean clothing with contemporary hip-hop culture. I’m here.

“There are so many Italians who are not Italian but immigrants who feel Italian. I think that’s very beautiful,” Stewart said.

The show ended with a celebration as models, designers and activists gathered on the runway, clapping and swaying to Cynthia Erivo’s song. stand up.

Both Trussardi and Vogue Italia use WAMI’s Italian-based database of fashion professionals of color, but the lists haven’t been adopted industry-wide as much as their founders had hoped. Gisele Claudia Ntsama, one of the WAMI class designers at , worked in Valentino’s design office.

Giorgio Armani, who helped launch Stella Jean in 2013, pitched the textiles for the new WAMI capsule collection shown here.Condé Nast and European fashion magazines nss funding their production. The Fashion Council provided the venue for the show, but with limited funding compared to previous seasons, the three WAMI founders are covering the rest out of their own pockets.

Italian fashion houses too often confuse diversity, such as showcasing black models, with true inclusivity, employing experts in the creative process, Ngonmo said.

“I feel like they don’t quite understand what diversity means. They tend to confuse diversity with inclusion,” she said.

Buchanan said he remains optimistic, but acknowledged the post-pandemic market will be difficult as stores aren’t investing in collections by new designers.

Buchanan said, “I knew this was going to grow slowly. …they won’t be Gianni Versace tomorrow.”

Jean said new designers for major fashion brands came from abroad, not through the Italian system. Despite progress, she and her collaborators say they can hire people of color in creative roles and involve locally-grown black talent in ‘Made in Italy’. I still feel resistance to the idea.

“It’s more attractive to have someone from the outside,” she said.

Jean also said she is waiting for the Italian Fashion Council to execute an invitation to create a multicultural commission within its structure. He said he felt cold.

“None of us fully believed in promises. Now we’re entering familiar territory, when people feel free and comfortable not keeping their promises. It’s obvious.” ‘ said Jean.

“I’m at a crossroads,” the designer said of her future. Being alone in a room for a while makes you feel special. But seeing so many people out the door who are still better than me makes me realize I wasn’t special. you were very lucky ”