London prepares for four days of fashion shows and Queen’s funeral – WWD
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London – And just like that, within 72 hours, Britain had a new prime minister, a new king, mourned the death of her longest-serving monarch, and done her duty to the end.
The first week of September will be remembered as surreal for many Britons. It started with the election of Liz Truss as Prime Minister and her plans to curb runaway energy costs and keep the country’s lights on amid a cost-of-living crisis.
The next day, Queen Elizabeth II accepted Boris Johnson’s resignation as Head of State and asked Truss to turn 15.th Prime Minister – forms the government.
On 8 September, when the work was completed, the Queen died at her favorite Scottish castle, Balmoral. It was her private residence and informal summer retreat where she famously hosted picnics and barbecues, and even helped clean up afterward.
Her death shook a country many people had swept away distrust and expected her to rule forever, or at least for a few more years. why not? She had been happily on the throne for her 70 years, and her own mother, Queen Elizabeth, was nearing her 102 when she died in 2002.
Few here remember the death of the last British monarch, Elizabeth’s father, George VI, in 1952.
Not everyone admired her, but many did, and a quick YouGov poll found that 76% of Britons said they were upset by her death and 44% said they heard the news. I cried and became emotional.
Tears or not, business leaders in particular said her work ethic, stamina and sense of duty were exceptional. After all, what kind of person is she still sitting at her desk and having meetings at 96?
“The Queen displays a form of leadership that is rare today,” writes Orlando Martins, founder of Oresa, one of the UK’s retail industry’s top executive recruitment agencies. “When others raced for change, she stood for stability, dignity, and consistency. She moved with her times, but she didn’t let it take her off course.” .”
Positive Luxury, a consultancy that helps luxury companies with their sustainability and ESG efforts, described Queen as “the very embodiment of commitment and a catalyst for global collaboration.”
The UK fashion and retail industry sticks to its spirit, driving business and unique initiatives. After two years of lockdowns, double-digit inflation and a cost-of-living crisis that only got worse this winter, they have few options.
Some already believe the closure of businesses on Monday, the day of the funeral, could deal an additional blow to the already struggling UK economy. , the company is not obligated to close.
Large and small retailers and brands including Selfridges, Harrods, Liberty, Burberry, Giorgio Armani, Apple, Acne Studios, Tommy Hilfiger, De Beers and Zara will be closing on the day of the funeral.
Selfridges, Liberty and Mulberry are among the stores that closed shortly after the Queen’s death last week. Others postponed the event until the end of this month, and he until October.
Simon French, chief economist at Panmule Gordon and columnist for The Times of London, based on evidence from previous one-off holidays, believes Monday’s bank holiday will boost economic output “at least The drop could lead to flat or even negative third quarter growth, which could plunge the country into recession.
Retailers aren’t sure the impact of Monday’s closures will be as dramatic, and many are determined to honor the day by suspending operations.
Retail trade groups polled by WWD were reluctant to speculate about the impact of the bank holiday, not wanting to be seen as taking advantage of the Queen’s death. Some companies say the shutdown is unlikely to have a major impact on retailers. Many of the retailers are international and have robust online channels.
“I haven’t heard of any companies complaining about this yet. It will have an impact, but it’s unlikely to make much of a difference in the long run anyway,” said one retail industry representative. increase.
Another person added: “We haven’t heard any concerns from our members. We may see brands absorb closing costs on bank holidays, but we see strong sales before and after funerals.”
Retail industry leaders also said they hoped business would pick up with the coronation of Charles III, which could take place in the first half of next year.
London hotels have been hit hard by two years of lockdown and the loss of Chinese and Russian tourists ahead of funerals expected to be attended by more than 2,000 heads of state, royalty and other VIP guests. rice field.
Popular restaurants are fully booked over the weekend, and trains and the London Underground are packed with people on the move.
The next day, nearly a million people are expected to gather in central London to pay their last respects to the monarch before his funeral. will be
People have already waited in lines for miles through the night, in the autumn drizzle, for a chance to pay their last respects to their monarch in the year of the Platinum Jubilee.
London Fashion Week will also be held in a simpler and more business-focused fashion.
As reported, the organizers scrapped the original show calendar and reorganized all activities previously set to take place on the day of the funeral. The show officially kicks off Friday morning and runs through Sunday evening. There will be no shows on Monday, and it will resume on Tuesday, the final day of London Fashion Week.
Some designers, including Raf Simons, have postponed their shows, while Burberry plans to present its Spring 2023 collection in London on September 26, between Milan and Paris. According to reports, Alexander McQueen planned to present his Spring 2023 collection on October 11, the eve of Frieze Art Fair, which runs from October 12 to 16.
Christopher Kane is one of the designers who decided to move forward. He will stage his runway show live for the first time since February 2020. It is set to begin at 8 p.m. local time on Sunday evening, when the Prime Minister called for her one-minute silence across the country to remember the Queen.
Brands, designers and buyers are in high spirits and looking to move showweek forward despite moments of sobriety.WWD research finds canceled trips to London citing national mourning and funerals No one has.
Tatiana Hambro, editorial director of Moda Operandi, said the London fashion show “represents a huge financial, creative, personal and other commitment. Recognizing these efforts and the city’s immense talent is an incredible achievement.” It’s important, Her Majesty the Queen was the ultimate example of steadfastness and unwavering devotion.I grew up in London and I am grateful to be here to witness this important moment in our history. , we are proud to support the city’s fashion community during this time.”
Jodi Kahn, vice president of Luxury Fashion at Neiman Marcus, said she plans to attend the show, saying, “We have put a lot of time and effort into preparing the show after very difficult circumstances over the past two years. To support our designers, we have no doubt that we will come together as an industry to celebrate Her Majesty’s legacy and the creative side of her life.”
Mytheresa chief executive Michael Kliger said his team would be on the move.
Mytheresa carries a number of London-based brands including Burberry, Christopher Kane, Alexander McQueen, David Koma, Emilia Wickstead, Erdem and JW Anderson.
Kliger said the timing of London Fashion Week was disappointing given the mourning and funerals, but said, “We feel very committed to the London fashion industry, especially to small and medium-sized brands. Preparing for a show takes a tremendous amount of work, so if a London brand decides to go ahead with the show, our team will be there and ready to help.
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