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Glamor on the one hand, activism on the other: Designers Tory Burch and Gabriella Hearst showed off two different approaches to New York Fashion Week on Tuesday.

American designer Birch brings a vintage-inspired collection to New York that veers away from famous prints and bright colors.

“The collection is more personal to me now that I’m not running the business,” she told AFP after the show.

Since 2019, Birch has handed over the management of the company to her husband, Pierre-Yves Roussel, in the roles of chief creative officer and executive chair.

For the Spring/Summer 2023 collection, Birch recalled moving to New York in the 1990s and said she wanted to emphasize “concepts of richness and minimalism” at the same time.

With sheer cotton tops, lace bras and silver shoes, Birch evoked the sophisticated sophistication and eroticism of the early ’90s.

“I think it’s a little sexier than what we’ve done in the past,” she said. but I also love a certain elegance to it.”

She also said she used jersey bandeau skirts as a regular motif, sometimes even trying to wear them over pants.

“I wanted to push it a little further and challenge us to have a more focused perspective,” she explained.

Uruguayan designer Gabriella Hearst’s show was full of atmosphere.In a huge warehouse with opaque windows, her models scuttled down a runway lined with gospel choirs.

Gold predominates, shimmering across the cloak and over the breastplate, playing to the accompaniment of black and white.

Long yellow and orange ponchos and red pantsuits hand-stitched in Uruguay also recalled the colors of fire.

Some of the pieces appeared to have been molded directly onto the models, and there were collection notes explaining how the leather was soaked in water and draped over the foam to create unique pieces.

The theme of female empowerment was also woven into the show.

Hearst, who is also Chloe’s creative director, said her 2023 ready-to-wear collection was inspired by the ancient Greek poet Sappho and how she shed light on the hardships women have to endure.

“This Joy,” a gospel song written by Grammy Award winner Shirley Caesar, was performed by the Resistance Revival Chorus. The Resistance Revival Chorus is billed as a collective of female and non-binary singers, talking about “historically marginalized women in the music industry.”

The cast on the catwalk included women’s rights activist Cecil Richards, Mexican Chilean climate activist Xie Barr, and antitoxic shock syndrome campaigner Lauren Wasser.

Hirst also said it aimed to offset the show’s climate footprint by working with Swiss company Climeworks, which uses technology to capture carbon dioxide directly from the air.