PARIS (AP) — Loewe’s ever-creative director, Jonathan Anderson, was the toast to Paris Fashion Week on Friday. His subtly provocative, concept-driven runway show triumphs had critics like Karlie Kloss and Alexa his Chan and his VIP guests going wild. .

Meanwhile, Vogue’s Anna Wintour has announced that next year’s Met Gala in New York will pay tribute to the late Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld.

Highlights from the Spring/Summer 2023 collection include:

with Loewe

Loewe, a hip heritage brand whose ‘w’ is pronounced ‘v’, is going from strength to strength under the artistic stewardship of Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson.

FILE – Fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld poses during the illumination ceremony on the Champs Elysees for the Christmas season in Paris on Thursday, November 22, 2018. US Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour gathers her insiders at the top of her fashion week in Paris on Friday Sept. 30, 2022, to reveal that the theme for next year’s annual Met her gala will be the late Karl Lagerfeld. announced that it will be a work of (AP Photo/Christoph Ena, File)

Photo: ASSOCIATED PRESS/Christophe Ena

Worn by a model for the Giambattista Valli Spring/Summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection presented in Paris on Friday 30th September 2022. (Photo by Viannie Le Care/Invision/AP)

Photo: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP/Vianney Le Caer

A model wearing the Giambattista Valli Spring/Summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection, presented in Paris on Friday 30th September 2022. (Photo by Viannie Le Care/Invision/AP)

Photo: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP/Vianney Le Caer

Kiernan Shipka appears in the Giambattista Valli Spring/Summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection, presented in Paris on Friday 30th September 2022. (Photo by Viannie Le Care/Invision/AP)

Photo: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP/Vianney Le Caer

Paris Jackson (right) and Kiernan Shipka arriving at Giambattista Valli’s Spring/Summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection, presented in Paris on Friday 30th September 2022. (Photo by Viannie Le Care/Invision/AP)

Photo: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP/Vianney Le Caer

The model wears pieces from the Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection, presented in Paris on Friday 30th September 2022. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Photo: ASSOCIATED PRESS/François Mori

Designer Giambattista Valli receives applause after the Spring/Summer 2023 ready-to-wear fashion collection presented in Paris on Friday 30 September 2022. (Photo by Viannie Le Care/Invision/AP)

Photo: Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP/Vianney Le Caer

The model wears pieces from the Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection, presented in Paris on Friday 30th September 2022. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Photo: ASSOCIATED PRESS/François Mori

The model wears pieces from the Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection, presented in Paris on Friday 30th September 2022. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Photo: ASSOCIATED PRESS/François Mori

The model wears pieces from the Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection, presented in Paris on Friday 30th September 2022. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Photo: ASSOCIATED PRESS/François Mori

As worn by a model from the Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection, presented in Paris on Friday 30th September 2022. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Photo: ASSOCIATED PRESS/François Mori

As worn by a model from the Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection, presented in Paris on Friday 30th September 2022. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Photo: ASSOCIATED PRESS/François Mori

The model wears pieces from the Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection, presented in Paris on Friday 30th September 2022. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Photo: ASSOCIATED PRESS/François Mori

Designer Satoshi Kondo applauds the closing of Issey Miyake’s Spring/Summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection, presented in Paris on Friday 30th September 2022. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Photo: ASSOCIATED PRESS/François Mori

As worn by a model from the Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection, presented in Paris on Friday 30th September 2022. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Photo: ASSOCIATED PRESS/François Mori

The model wears pieces from the Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection, presented in Paris on Friday 30th September 2022. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Photo: ASSOCIATED PRESS/François Mori

The model wears pieces from the Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection, presented in Paris on Friday 30th September 2022. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Photo: ASSOCIATED PRESS/François Mori

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Friday’s concept-driven collection — the highlight of the season so far — was a case in point. Create other themes and develop them until they are all tied together by invisible strings. A giant bright red tropical flower known as an anthurium was the centerpiece of this minimalist runway, creating a thoughtful variation on the floral theme.

It was literal at times, like the giant white anthurium that served as the front piece for an A-line mini dress. The silhouette itself resembled an upside-down flower, like a 1940s take on Dior.

Distortion was everywhere. Ash’s Bustier His gown features a peplum inside to create a surreal curtain shape on the skirt. In the 1940s, stripes of myriad colors also appeared on babydoll gowns that bewildered the eye.

The shoes were ruffles of white fabric like flower petals stroking the floor—or were they mops?

This collection showcases Anderson as a rare designer who successfully blends classic fashion with intricate ideas without sacrificing visual beauty.

Besides, if one of the front row guests is just knitting all the time, isn’t this the height of fashion?

Celebrating Karl Lagerfeld at the Met Gala

American Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour announced Friday that the theme for next year’s annual Met Gala will be the work of the late Karl Lagerfeld, gathering top Paris Fashion Week insiders.

Held on the first Monday in May, this world-famous fundraiser, which has also been billed the Oscars of the fashion world, is a German who worked for Chanel, Fendi and Chloé, who died in 2019 at the age of 85. Celebrate the work of a born couturier. .

As usual, the Met Gala’s theme is borrowed from the museum’s ongoing exhibits. Next year’s exhibition will be titled ‘Karl Lagerfeld: The Line of Beauty’ and will bring together about 150 of his works to give you a glimpse into his ‘style language’. Lagerfeld’s original sketches of him will also be on display.

Issey Miyake: Tribute

Techno-fabric-loving Japanese Miyake Issey Miyake saw the end of an era on Friday when it unveiled its first collection since the death of its founder. Fashion icon Issey Miyake died last month in Tokyo at the age of 84.

A heartfelt tribute to him was included in the show notes from current designer Satoshi Kondo and the design team. I see it as a process that brings joy, surprise, hope, and of course playfulness to life.”

The spring show was just so meditative.

Drape and gentle curves define a soft aesthetic against a set of giant glowing obelisks. Models walked a hazy runway backlit in white and blue, making it seem as if they could see through the clouds.

The loose white shirt had an added layer of fabric that flapped like wings, and the neon yellow trench with voluminous arms was as dazzling as the first rays of the sun.

The best looks from the otherwise safe collection were classic Miyake styles. flowed down one leg like moving lava.

Giambattista Valli, The Wicker Man

Bejeweled Roman sandals, rope-like hem detail and tunic-style mini dress.

Giambattista Valli’s spring collection pays homage to ancient Rome, shows in Paris, and despite having a very Parisian aesthetic, Vali is actually reminiscent of Rome. It reminded fashion insiders of one thing (although it’s not an ancient breed that originated in Rome in 1966).

Spring saw the talented couturier’s usual sexy Sixties fare. But within these styles were creative flourishes that indicated he had multiple eyes on trends.

Friday saw designs using raffia and rattan-like perforations to create a style that was also seen in other collections this season.

The best looks were the ones with the least amount of effort. One black full skirt with all the perforations had a kind of sporty-ethnic feel to it, with the flesh of the mode looking sensual through the holes.

Leonard Fong

A workaholic, Christine Phung keeps a busy schedule and is slowly making a name for herself in Parisian fashion circles as the creative director of Leonard Paris and her namesake line.

In her spring collection, prints and architectural shapes are shot in vibrant colors, with waist detailing and cloche sleeves for a relaxed ’70s vibe.

Meanwhile, gentle psychedelics gave a lift to a retro boho gown that had fabric spread across the bust looking very Farrah Fawcett.

It was sweet and safe.

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